Kodachadri Trek and Malpe Beach Visit

Four of us Me, Vikram, Peddi and Sathis planned to attend our beloved friend Mangesh's marriage in Sagar which is in Shimoga district on Dec 25th. My mind did the maths fast and calculated the available days if I take leave on friday, yup it is 4 full days. After some google visits and Govind's advice I concluded with 2 days trip plan. This time we are planned to go by bus. First time I am tripping through bus. It just gives altogether a different experience, you are more prone to mingle with the native people and get to know their customs and explore their cultures. Like this quote very much, “Lots of people want to ride with you in the limo, but what you want is someone who will take the bus with you when the limo breaks down.”

Day1[Dec 25]: We are at Sagar, at 2PM the marriage was over. Jog is almost 28Kms from the place where the marriage have happened. Tried hiring a car and we found that to be costly (500 for 56Kms) moreover that guy seems not interested in bargaining. So we took an Auto and squeezed ourselves inside. It was an altogether different kind of experience! Our good luck, we could see the Rocks of Jog :-) Probably 90 out of 100 could have only seen the water flowing, not the rocks. We are among the 10% population. From Jog we took a bus to Sagar, for every half an hour there is a bus to Sagar. Our plans of what next is not clear, we decided to postpone that until we reach Sagar. After 2Hrs journey we reached Sagar, had refreshments. Our initial plan is to reach Kollur the same day to start the Kodachadri trekking. But unavailability of bus service to Kollur made us to change our plan. We left Peddi in lodge, he is going back to home. At 8PM we started towards Udupi in a private bus, distance would be 120Kms, but the travel time might take 4 to 5 hrs. This entire road is located in a ghat, for every 10 meters there is a steep curve, bus was going to left and right extremes of the road to turn properly.

Day2[Dec 26]: We reached Udupi at around 1AM, checked almost 20 lodges, but none of them have rooms. So we finally decided to stay in Bus terminal, Sathis had some old news papers, which might come handy in saving us. Fortunately(Thought initially!) we found one lodge, and there is a room. Got the keys and the keeper said the room is an old one, we thought it is ok for nothing. Once I opened the room, I thought I have come to some archaeological survey and reached Harappa :-) Immediately went to the reception and said to that guy I am leaving Udupi itself, he was cool and asked "Is the room dusty?", I just stopped the word which come until my lips. He saw our faces and said there is one more room available which we have to vacate at 7AM. I was hesitant to waste some more time, but tried just. It was good, we got dragged into a deep sleep with in 10 mins. Got up at 6AM and had our bath, started moving towards Malpe beach. In Udupi bus stand there is a "Santhi Sagar" hotel in which we had very good breakfast. Boarded in Malpe bus, it is just 8 Kms ahead. Within 30 mins we are at Malpe. From bus stand we started to beach by walk, the streets are narrow and after few 100 meters you will find the beach road. The beach is not polluted much and sand is smooth like silk. Early morning in the beach is so enjoyable. Water bike ride is available here for 300Rs per round, he might take you for 2Kms, with sharp twists. We had enjoyed that fun, it was not so thrilling, as because you know that you won't sink as well you wont get hurt. Beach is getting hot as the sun moves from east to west, we started heading back to Udupi.

Had our lunch in "Santhi Sagar", it was really good. North indian special meals with many items. All of them are carefully prepared to give a very good taste. Had a "Gadi Badi", it is a kind of ice cream prepared with dry fruits and cherry fruits which is very famous in areas around Mangalore. Boarded a bus to Kollur, travel took more then 2Hrs to reach Kollur. This town is known for the "Mookambika temple". There is nothing interesting in this town, we struggled to get a room in this town, just because it is a festival season. If your plan is nothing other then trekking and you want to stay in Kollur, please be aware of the festival seasons. Otherwise you will be ended-up paying triple the amount. We are just lucky enough to escape from it, immediately after getting down from the bus we just asked the temple facility office which is located in the bus stand itself for accommodation. That guy is kind enough to give the details about the situation and also said if we don't find any room we can stay in the dormitory provided by the temple by paying 10Rs per head. Finally we ended up staying in the temple facility, total cost including the locker was 50Rs. We were about to pay 1000 per night in some lodge. But it costs you something, you need to adjust with other devotees, some time it gets crowded badly. I won't mind experiencing ups and downs of this country.

Got up in the early morning 5AM, had no chance to take the bath due to the crowd. At 6, we boarded in a Bangalore bus and got down in the trekking point called "Netoor". Its 7AM, very cool and foggy. Its little different from the Kumaraparvatha forests, we could hear some sounds of animals and birds here, whereas there is a dead silence in KP forests. Tall trees both the side block the light from coming inside. At 8.20 we reached a village on the way and found a hotel, had some Puttus(steam cake) and idlies. Until this village trekking is nothing but just walking in the even land. Steep climbing starts from this point, you will be walking alongside the edges of the peaks. Its the start of the summer, but the grasslands have dried up already. We reached the peak around 11.55AM, took some snaps. There is a hotel at this point, he is serving food to trekkers and devotees. From this point you can trek further up to reach "Agasthiar Theertha", small water fall. Else you can just follow the jeep tracks which goes down and find a left turn inside the trekking path after 1km to reach a water fall called Hitluemane. Finding the left turn is little tricky, if you miss you might get ended up somewhere. We also had no clue where it comes, one group was standing in a left turn and discussing themselves something. We approached them and asked for the fall route, it seems they too not sure of it. We trekked down further in the same left trun and found that route goes further down. From the main route(jeep track) you will see a left turn which is actually the route to falls, to make sure of this turn just watch your right side, you will see a trekking path going top to the hill. If you find both of them you are done finding the route to the fall, just slide down in the left turn, after some distance it takes a left again. After another an hour, at 12 we were in the falls.

The fall is crowed with all aged people, some kids too :-) I have seen many water falls, but not like this one. Covered by dense forest, there is a less scope for the sun beams to peep inside. This is the fact that explains why the water is so cool. Trekking route near to this fall is just made to reach it, obviously they are steep and sliding. But it is not difficult to negotiate them. Just slide your upper body little backside, you can easily move across without slipping. We spent 2Hrs, our trip was fulfilled here. This fall is not advisable in the rainy seasons, if you are doing it I would recommend you to have all precautionary measures and trainings. Now its time to trek down, we need to just follow the water flow some distance, then a left upside route starts. That leads to paddy and sugarcane fields, then a village(Just we saw few houses) starts, you will be merged in a jeep track again. Now it is nothing but follow the tracks. At one place there is a right turn and a straight way, you need to take the straight one, if you follow the right one you will be ended up in a village called "Kambali" instead of "Netoor". We missed to take the correct route after some time and reached a place called "Harimane" which joins the main road anyway.

When we were waiting in the bus stand we had a chance to speak with a local guy who works in Bangalore, we asked about the wild animals, sloth bears and elephants seems to be the most common animals here. In which bears are having unpredictable temperament, so you need to be aware of the environment before having fun in this forest bypassing the regular trek route and time! I got a guide number from a trekker, this guide seems to be very flexible and reasonable. You can check with him for possible routes and schedules. His Name is Rajendra and his contact number is 9242892299. I had uploaded high resolution photos taken in this trip in my picasa web albums. The link is available here right top of this page "My past in captivity". If you are able to spend one more day, plan to visit Sakrebylu near Shimoga, where you can get a chance to see the elephant herd playing in water. Just for curiosity read the below link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sloth_bear_of_Mysore.

Kodaikanal Bike trip [Aug 2008]

All of my previous trips are less then 400Kms. I thought my bike might get into troubles if I stretch it beyond 400+ in a single day. But how long I can resist myself from not involving into road trips, I always feel like I am born to roam around. I never liked traveling inside Bangalore, only I go out if it is completely necessary. Came to Bangalore in the mid of 2003, almost 6 years, but still I am not sure where the intersection of MG road and Brigade road is. Whoever(I do not mean above 45) come to Bangalore would be tempted to visit MG Road first ! This was not the case with me, I am sure this is a characteristic which makes me a different kind. After all I came here to make money, not just get into this dreamy urban culture. I wanted to stay as much as lazy possible.

Planned decisively to Kodaikanal, no second thought this time. I know partial route until Gopichettipalayam. It is Tamilnadu afterward. So I have no concern about maps, distance etc ... One of my college-mate Palani(Its not a place name) agreed to accompany me there. We planned for two day stay in Kodai. For me itinerary will be four days. As usual serviced the vehicle, changed oil, purchased some ready to eat items. I aimed at August 15 which is a holiday, took off by 14th, now it sums up to 4 days. Early morning 4.30 started the engine, there were some of my usual passerby neighbors who gave me "All the best, have a nice time", by barking loudly and chasing me until the end of street. A nice beginning, warm start !! Took left in Banashankari circle, this time plan is not to go to Mysore and going through Kanakapura, Malavalli. I know the route good until Kanakapura, because I had visited Mekedatu many times. Until Kanakapura roads are good and not much traffic except few trucks and stray dogs. I started towards Malavalli, now the good roads are shadowing behind, could see only pot holes everywhere. Drastically reduced my speed now, consoled myself saying this won't last forever, there will be a good road ahead after some distance. But there is nothing, I was keep on moving ... Malavalli ... Kollegal ... Chamrajnagar. Ha, I am exhausted now, all the way I was scolding government authorities, passerby people were looking strange at me, so though they would think I am scolding them, shut my mouth up!

Near and after Chamrajnagar I could see a good patch of road, relieved somehow. But after 4 to 5 Kms the roads were in worst condition, bus fellows are just patching me with a dust. There were many private buses, luckily my overcoat is very good enough to cover myself completely. Otherwise I could have to park my body in a garage for a water-wash. After Chamrajnagar the forest boundary starts, roads are changing worst to good. Due to the previous day's rain the wind was so chill and ride was pleasant. I saw a sign board stating that "Tamilnadu border starts", all of a sudden the road condition changes to good to excellent. I am not completely biased here, the roads are remarkably put. You can easily accelerate to 140+ with out having any fear of getting a pot hole in the middle. After some distance Thimbam ghat section starts, zig-zag ride, a pleasant one. No much vehicle population in this road, stopped in the top of the hill to have a fresh tea.

Time crossed 12.30PM, started sliding down, many thoughts in my mind, where to stop for lunch? when approximately I can reach Kodai ??? Kept moving fast ... crossed Bannari ... Satyamangalam ... Gopichettipalayam. It is time to ask the correct route, asked locals, no one is clear, one truck driver clearly had given me the details. You can take either Kangayam or through P.Puliyampatti route, both of them are very good. I had chosen Kangayam one, planned to have lunch there, as well while coming back I planned for the next route. Reached Kangayam at around 2.50PM, many hotels, you don't need to look around. Its Tamilnadu, just close your eyes, the smell of sambar will tell you where and how the hotel is !! Had a special meals worth 35 bucks, it was awesome. One addition is Ghee from Oothukuli the nearby town, which is very well known for butter. Its hot sun, In Tamilnadu there is zero humidity most of the times, I am used to it from my childhood and I like it very much. Removed my overcoat, crossed Dharapuram. I was going non stop most of the times, my back started crying, I needed some rest; could not find a single big Banyan tree, everywhere only Tamarind trees, those will not give good shade. On the way I spotted a water tap(Its TN, there won't be canals like Karnataka), washed my face. After some distance there was a well and a garden(Thottam in tamil), looked like a good place for resting.

Switched off the engine, took off all the baggage, moved a big stone to support my back. Ha, what a comfort a stone can provide in such a place. I can't just explain that in words. The wind was getting cool so the engine. Stopped there for 30 mins, just to cool down the engine. Its time to start again, After Dharapuram, Palani city comes, there is a famous temple for Lord Muruga situated here. Its one of the "Arupadai Veedu" (Six houses) for Lord Muruga. (Own house or rented, I don't know). After Palani, Kodai is 60 Kms, out of that 40kms is sure a ghat road. Really a fun ahead, It was 4.45PM. Started climbing up, Once after reaching the ghat roads the climate changed completely, at 5.30PM fog blocked the view, nothing is visible. I have a high/low beam option, used both of them to identify the edges of the road. I was moving quite slow, this is absolutely important. A perfect Rider has 100% responsibility not only for his life, also for others life as well.

At 6.00PM it was killing cold, I stopped bike and took out my hand cloves. I always carry them even if I don't use it. Now the ride was somehow manageable. Reached police check-post, paid 10 bucks for my two wheeler. Policeman checked all my baggage suspecting that I am terrorist, might be the riding gear made him to suspect me. Even after showing all my identity he was specifically interested in my company ID card, so guys don't underestimate the value of your employee ID, it might save your already soured *** at some critical time. Finally reached Kodaikanal at around 7.00PM. So more then 2Hours climb. Got a room in "Hotel RUBY Internatinal", it is very start of Kodaikanal called "Moonjikkal". settled down all my packages, had a warm bath. Now went around to have a food, there are many hotels nearby, but none of them are good. None of them are clean, so asked everyone around for good vegetarian hotel. Finally found one near to the bus stand (I am really sorry here, Forgot the name, it was almost 6 months before). The next two days I had never gone to another veg hotel, the one I went for Biriyani is a different story, that is "Thirunelveli Nadar Hotel" near bus stand.

It was a pleasant night with no dreams! Next day morning my friend Palani came to room around 8.00PM. We planned to see the nearby places on that day, no plans were there in mind for next day. Our schedule is to visit the Lake first, at 10 we were at Lake, the ariel view it looks like a perfect star. There is a name too for it "Star lake". The around lake distance is 6Kms, made us to open our mouth widely! There are hundreds of bicycles for rent, just rent them one and start riding around the lake. It would be a worthwhile experience. We had chosen to walk, talking all things happened in the past, mimic-ed HOD, and the lady lecturer, followed the girls in the tour, got zero marks in Set theory paper .... We are near to the boat house now, so took tickets for Pedal boats, 1 hour the charge is 40 bucks, you can extend the time if needed. They are in perfect condition, you need to cycle the pedal 100 times to cross 1 meter, isn't it a nice exercise! Palani is capable of crossing that lake non stop, I used see him swimming the Sivagalai lake(which is a lengthy one, might spreads over 3kms). After having fun in lake we moved for lunch, tasted Nadar's Biriyani made in Nelli style (Thirunelveli is called Nellai).

After lunch we went to Coaker's walk, a place where you can get awesome view of the valley. This place is named after a British man who found this place. We took many snaps here, by nature this is a great place, but the crowd which pulls you there and here will not allow you to enjoy it to the maximum. So prepared to come here by week days. Weekends you will see kids, kids everywhere. End of the other side there are many shops which provide you variety of oils, normal coconut oils to pain killers. You can buy them, all of them available other side too have the similar quality. We want to get the night view from that place, so planned to come in the late evening again. Went to hotel, had a nap, around 6.30PM walked back to Cocker's walk, due to the fog visibility was less, few people around this time. There was a brief silence only the breeze broke it often, we stayed there until they close it, around 8PM. Came back to hotel room after having some idlies and parotas (Not the north indian paratha).

Next day morning 7AM we rented two cycles and planned to visit the places which comes in the same route. The places are 500 year old tree, Green valley, Guna cave, Pine tree forest and a small trek until the Piller rock. It is an uphill, so we struggled a lot to pedal the cycles forward, but that was an unmemorable experience, which lasts until the end of your life. We visited all the places en-route, took many snaps. One good thing is you don't need to lock the bicycle, it doesn't come with a lock. I could see the "Mutual Belief system" working. On the way you spot many English names in some big Villas, all of them came here around 50/100 years before, they explored this land and made the beauty visible to the world. We sat under some trees on the peak for a while, fog comes and goes, at some time we were completely blinded by it. Started drizzling, might be we mistook the fog. Started cycling down, effortless ride, just used brakes. On the way we purchased walnut, cherrys, and some dry fruits as well some chocolates, dirty cheap here. You need to bargain though!

Bicycle rent had cost us 100 bucks. After having lunch my friend thought of going home early, so I took him to bus stand, he left around 3.30PM. I roamed myself until 9.00PM. Planned to leave by next day morning at 9.00AM. Delayed due to the non-availability of petrol until 10AM. Atlast I filled-up the tank and started my journey back. I was not sad to say a Goodbye to Kodai, because I know that I will be back at some point of time again! I had chosen not to travel in the early morning, because ghat roads are more enjoyable at day time. Yes it was, Kodai to Palani is the best ghat road, with zero pot holes. The view from the top would be awesome when you reach near to the downhills. I had many snaps, you can see the zig-zag roads from the top. One thing to remind here, if you come by bus, you will have only time to vomit most of the times, or smelling a lemon always with a fear of vomitting; won't be having enough time to enjoy the surroundings. So don't prefer closed driving unless until you are not really fit for bike travel. This time after Palani I had choosen P.Puliampatti route, but this road is more open, much windy, lots of wind-farms all the way. If you have good bike choose this one, otherwise choose Kangayam route. Traveled through Pollachi, Bhavani, Mettupalayam, Sirumugai, Bannari and Satyamangalam. Its 5.30PM, so decided to halt in Sathy. Took a room dropped all baggage had a bath and went for a Chettinad style hotel, no second though after seeing Idly and chicken in the menu board(They can not afford giving everyone a junk Booklet with items only in it) !! Came back to room and slept.

Started again by 5AM next day, same route through Thimbam (Doesn't matter how many times I travel, I like this road very much), Chamrajnagar, Kolllegal, Mallavalli, Kanakapura and Bangalore. It was almost non-stop ride, very few stops also very fast(average 55kms/hr). Might be for splendor+ it is a good speed. At around 11.45 I was in front of my home! The trip has ended, but not the desire for tripping, it is a wave and constantly comes when you are depressed and goes when you think I am done enough. But it never stops for any reason until .....

I had given some information of my odometer values observed at the trip time here for the reference. Covered both the ways, one side distance is almost 460Kms. Route map can be seen from mapsofindia.com

http://www.mapsofindia.com/driving-directions-maps/nh209-driving-directions-map.html